Soft99 QJUTSU Clay Bar (50g)

It lifts bonded iron fallout, brake dust, industrial deposits, rail dust, tree sap residue and overspray - anything that survives a chemical wash and still leaves the paint feeling rough to the touch.

Yes, for best results do a full decon wash first. Use an iron remover to dissolve embedded ferrous particles, rinse thoroughly, then follow with the clay bar. This combination is more thorough than either step alone and reduces the risk of the clay loading up too quickly.

Any quality clay lubricant or slick quick detailer works well. Avoid using too little - the panel should be thoroughly wet so the clay glides without dragging. Never clay a dry panel.

Yes, it can be used on ceramic-coated surfaces with adequate lubrication. Keep your passes light and ensure the panel is well lubricated. Heavy pressure on a coated surface is unnecessary and not recommended.

Absolutely. Clay barring glass removes water spot residue, tree sap and bonded road grime that wiper blades smear around. Use the same technique as on paint - plenty of lubricant and light pressure.

Fold and knead the clay every few panels to expose a clean working face. When the clay is visibly grey or black throughout and can no longer be kneaded to show a clean surface, it's time to replace it. A dropped piece of clay should be discarded immediately - it picks up grit from the floor that will mar your paint.

After claying, wipe the surface down with an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) panel wipe to remove any lubricant residue. This is a critical step before ceramic application - any oily film left on the surface will interfere with bonding and adhesion. Then coat immediately while the surface is clean and bare.

When used correctly with sufficient lubrication and light pressure, it should not introduce marring. That said, any physical claying process carries a minor risk if the clay is loaded with sharp particles or the surface runs dry. Always work with well-lubricated panels and inspect the clay face regularly.